Monday, May 25, 2009
Sunday, March 15, 2009
Bamboo flooring
By Bowe Packer
We all like to be gallant of our homes and one of the first areas to arrest people’s eyes is that of the floors. To make sure that every facet of our homes are admired and leisurely to keep many of us look for products that help with this part. There are many dissimiliar types of floor that we can have on our floors but the one that many people seem to want is that of bamboo flooring.
I am sure that when you hear the word “bamboo” flooring you see an epitome of a floor with an uneven surface that just might not look right. You may even think of bamboo flooring as being in lambast like strips just as if it was set out in its natural state. This is not what bamboo floor genuinely is. As an alternative you have flooring that is 100% environmentally friendly and attractive to look at.
The many new technical advances that have been made allow for the processing of the bamboo canes into suave and straight floor strips. This process has granted bamboo floor a very high character and extremely flowing finish. As a upshot of this there is a very high demand for bamboo flooring.
You can find bamboo flooring in laminated short strips, tiles and planks. Since the bamboo is an ease to install due to the length and the visual aspect you will find that your bamboo flooring can last for many years. Yet you will need to take care of it during the evocation process to fit the bamboo strips together properly and evenly. Once this process has been realized you will find that you have a very lasting and stalwart bamboo floor.
Since many people are eager to have their homes look and feel environmentally “green” they by nature desire their flooring and diverse home accessories to co-ordinate. To help you with the inside interior decoration scheme you can find bamboo flooring in a diversity of styles and colors.
There are many companies who are mired in the concern of supplying their clients with the many dissimilar types of bamboo flooring. You up until now can get your bamboo floor from various online stores that sell floor materials including bamboo flooring. Before you order the entire amount of floor for your new flooring project you should ask that you have a sample sent to your house, so that you can see if you like this eccentric and good looking floor material.
With bamboo flooring you can choose the character of styles and colours that you will like in the many brands that are available. These flooring brands include Westhollow, Bamboo Garden, Panda Lumber, Springwood and Envirochoice. Now there is one other token that you might be interested in regarding bamboo flooring. With a bamboo floor the economic value of your house can increase as the age of your house increases. So be prepared for your value to go up.
Bowe is the webmaster and content provide for many informational websites.
Please visit his Flooring site at: http://flooring.infoforuonline.com
Industry Directory
By Bowe Packer
We all like to be gallant of our homes and one of the first areas to arrest people’s eyes is that of the floors. To make sure that every facet of our homes are admired and leisurely to keep many of us look for products that help with this part. There are many dissimiliar types of floor that we can have on our floors but the one that many people seem to want is that of bamboo flooring.
I am sure that when you hear the word “bamboo” flooring you see an epitome of a floor with an uneven surface that just might not look right. You may even think of bamboo flooring as being in lambast like strips just as if it was set out in its natural state. This is not what bamboo floor genuinely is. As an alternative you have flooring that is 100% environmentally friendly and attractive to look at.
The many new technical advances that have been made allow for the processing of the bamboo canes into suave and straight floor strips. This process has granted bamboo floor a very high character and extremely flowing finish. As a upshot of this there is a very high demand for bamboo flooring.
You can find bamboo flooring in laminated short strips, tiles and planks. Since the bamboo is an ease to install due to the length and the visual aspect you will find that your bamboo flooring can last for many years. Yet you will need to take care of it during the evocation process to fit the bamboo strips together properly and evenly. Once this process has been realized you will find that you have a very lasting and stalwart bamboo floor.
Since many people are eager to have their homes look and feel environmentally “green” they by nature desire their flooring and diverse home accessories to co-ordinate. To help you with the inside interior decoration scheme you can find bamboo flooring in a diversity of styles and colors.
There are many companies who are mired in the concern of supplying their clients with the many dissimilar types of bamboo flooring. You up until now can get your bamboo floor from various online stores that sell floor materials including bamboo flooring. Before you order the entire amount of floor for your new flooring project you should ask that you have a sample sent to your house, so that you can see if you like this eccentric and good looking floor material.
With bamboo flooring you can choose the character of styles and colours that you will like in the many brands that are available. These flooring brands include Westhollow, Bamboo Garden, Panda Lumber, Springwood and Envirochoice. Now there is one other token that you might be interested in regarding bamboo flooring. With a bamboo floor the economic value of your house can increase as the age of your house increases. So be prepared for your value to go up.
Bowe is the webmaster and content provide for many informational websites.
Please visit his Flooring site at: http://flooring.infoforuonline.com
Industry Directory
Saturday, March 14, 2009
Install one room of carpet
Installing Carpet
First a room measurement is needed to determine size of replacement carpet. Measure length then width. Lets say the room size is 14’6” long and 10’ wide. We will need a piece of carpet 12 x 15 to fit the room. Padding comes in 6’ width so we will need a 6 x 30 piece of pad.
Now we need to remove the old carpet and padding. Start by taking a laminate knife or a hawkbill blade, pull out a corner with the laminate blade and pull the carpet down the wall removing it from the tackstrip. Do this all the way around the room. If the carpet is seamed in the door way you will need to spilt the seam, do this on the outside edge (edge out of the room) Use a straight edge to insure a straight cut, as we will need that to make the new seam. Once this is done use a razor knife or a carpet knife to cut the carpet into 4 pieces. Roll up old carpet and pad take it out.
The sub-floor will need to be cleaned. Usually a good sweep will take care of this. Check the sub-floor, pound in any nails that may be loose. Check for squeaks, place 1 ½ screws where you find a squeak. You may need to use liquid nails if the screws don’t work.
Install the padding, roll pad out and cut to length with the carpet knife or razor knife. The pad should be just inside the tack strip. Once you have the pad rolled out and cut to length you will need a hammer tacker. This is a specializes staple gun. Used just how the name implies, hammer the staples into the pad use more around the edges than in the middle. Make sure that there are no ripples in the pad as these will translate into the carpet. Next you will need to tape the seams of the pad, a masking tape will do, some use duct tape.
We are ready for the carpet, as you remember the carpet is bigger than the room. We need to cut the carpet down to fit the room. Use a straight edge, the longer the better. You will need to use an awl to open the seam between the carpet fibers, an awl is a tool with a small point. Now the room we are using in this illustration is 10 feet wide, the carpet is 12 feet wide, lets cut the carpet to 10’ 6” this gives room for error. Also when we stretch the carpet we will have some more play room as well. Open the seam with the awl make sure of your measurments, lay out the straight edge, again check to make sure you are making a straight cut, this is why I use a 6 foot edge. Make your cut checking every so often for straight. Now rool up the carpet and take it into the room. Now we are 6 inches wide than the room so rolling it out may be a little challenge. Center the carpet so you have 3 inches going up each wall. Now you will need a carpet back cutter, this has a carpet blade in it and is designed to cut along the base of the baseboard. To start you will need to go to all 4 corners of the room and make diagonal split along the corner of the carpet not to long, just enough to get you to the bottom edge of the baseboard. Now make you cut along one wall, take your time and make a straight cut. Move back to the corner and repeat this step along the next wall.
Now that the cut is made you will need your knee kicker, and the hawkbill, or laminate trimmer. Go to the original corner and begin to tuck the carpet under the baseboard along the first wall you made your cut on. Once that wall is tucked go to the opposing wall and place the knee kicker about 2 inches from the tack strip. Drive your knee into the padded end of the knee kicker, repeat this along the wall use the impression left in the floor by the teeth of the kicker as a guide as to where to place the kicker next. You are now stretching the carpet in one direction. Once you have kicked the wall, go back to the corner where you started kicking and use the carpet back cutter, hawkbill, and knee kicker to cut excess off, tuck carpet and tighten carpet onto the tack strip.
Once you have completed this step go to the second wall where you have already trimmed carpet and tuck it under baseboard. Once done move to opposing wall.
This wall should be the wall with the doorway. Now we need to make a seam. Overlap the two carpets, use your straight edge and make a cut through both pieces of carpet, this should give you a perfect fit to both pieces. Place seam tape under the two pieces of, carpet center it up, now there are several types of seam tape, use what is the best for you. Make the seam, make sure the seam is secure and tight. Now all that is left is to go around the room and tuck and kick the carpet to make sure the carpet is fully stretched. Now you are done, enjoy your handi-work
First a room measurement is needed to determine size of replacement carpet. Measure length then width. Lets say the room size is 14’6” long and 10’ wide. We will need a piece of carpet 12 x 15 to fit the room. Padding comes in 6’ width so we will need a 6 x 30 piece of pad.
Now we need to remove the old carpet and padding. Start by taking a laminate knife or a hawkbill blade, pull out a corner with the laminate blade and pull the carpet down the wall removing it from the tackstrip. Do this all the way around the room. If the carpet is seamed in the door way you will need to spilt the seam, do this on the outside edge (edge out of the room) Use a straight edge to insure a straight cut, as we will need that to make the new seam. Once this is done use a razor knife or a carpet knife to cut the carpet into 4 pieces. Roll up old carpet and pad take it out.
The sub-floor will need to be cleaned. Usually a good sweep will take care of this. Check the sub-floor, pound in any nails that may be loose. Check for squeaks, place 1 ½ screws where you find a squeak. You may need to use liquid nails if the screws don’t work.
Install the padding, roll pad out and cut to length with the carpet knife or razor knife. The pad should be just inside the tack strip. Once you have the pad rolled out and cut to length you will need a hammer tacker. This is a specializes staple gun. Used just how the name implies, hammer the staples into the pad use more around the edges than in the middle. Make sure that there are no ripples in the pad as these will translate into the carpet. Next you will need to tape the seams of the pad, a masking tape will do, some use duct tape.
We are ready for the carpet, as you remember the carpet is bigger than the room. We need to cut the carpet down to fit the room. Use a straight edge, the longer the better. You will need to use an awl to open the seam between the carpet fibers, an awl is a tool with a small point. Now the room we are using in this illustration is 10 feet wide, the carpet is 12 feet wide, lets cut the carpet to 10’ 6” this gives room for error. Also when we stretch the carpet we will have some more play room as well. Open the seam with the awl make sure of your measurments, lay out the straight edge, again check to make sure you are making a straight cut, this is why I use a 6 foot edge. Make your cut checking every so often for straight. Now rool up the carpet and take it into the room. Now we are 6 inches wide than the room so rolling it out may be a little challenge. Center the carpet so you have 3 inches going up each wall. Now you will need a carpet back cutter, this has a carpet blade in it and is designed to cut along the base of the baseboard. To start you will need to go to all 4 corners of the room and make diagonal split along the corner of the carpet not to long, just enough to get you to the bottom edge of the baseboard. Now make you cut along one wall, take your time and make a straight cut. Move back to the corner and repeat this step along the next wall.
Now that the cut is made you will need your knee kicker, and the hawkbill, or laminate trimmer. Go to the original corner and begin to tuck the carpet under the baseboard along the first wall you made your cut on. Once that wall is tucked go to the opposing wall and place the knee kicker about 2 inches from the tack strip. Drive your knee into the padded end of the knee kicker, repeat this along the wall use the impression left in the floor by the teeth of the kicker as a guide as to where to place the kicker next. You are now stretching the carpet in one direction. Once you have kicked the wall, go back to the corner where you started kicking and use the carpet back cutter, hawkbill, and knee kicker to cut excess off, tuck carpet and tighten carpet onto the tack strip.
Once you have completed this step go to the second wall where you have already trimmed carpet and tuck it under baseboard. Once done move to opposing wall.
This wall should be the wall with the doorway. Now we need to make a seam. Overlap the two carpets, use your straight edge and make a cut through both pieces of carpet, this should give you a perfect fit to both pieces. Place seam tape under the two pieces of, carpet center it up, now there are several types of seam tape, use what is the best for you. Make the seam, make sure the seam is secure and tight. Now all that is left is to go around the room and tuck and kick the carpet to make sure the carpet is fully stretched. Now you are done, enjoy your handi-work
Friday, March 6, 2009
How to choose carpet
Hey everyone saw this article and it is on topic for my post tommorow so here it is enjoy and I will cover installing carpet tommorrow.
DAJELIFE
Choosing the Best Cheap Carpet for Your Own Individual Needs
by: Keith Wroblewski
What carpet will work best for my needs? What questions should I ask the carpet store before purchasing my carpet? How can I tell if the carpet is a quality carpet versus an over priced carpet? These are the questions that my clients ask me when they are considering purchasing a new carpet for their home. I will attempt to answer these questions and keep you from spending too much money or not enough money to achieve your new carpet needs. The first question you should answer is How long do I want the carpet to last? To simplify the answer to this question we will categorize the expected carpet life into under 5 years. Many people just want to put carpet into their home for resale purposes and wish to spend the least amount of money as possible. Other people wish to replace just their family room for a few years and then replace the whole house once the upstairs or less used carpets are also ready for replacement. If you want just a few years of use, Olefin carpet may be the best carpet for you. It is simply less expensive. It is also colorfast and will not discolor or fade easily. The down side to Olefin carpet is that it will mat easily and not perk up as much once it is cleaned. It will also absorb oils and not release them easily or some times not at all. As a carpet cleaner, we like Olefin the least since it does not respond to cleaning as well as most other carpets. Now that you decided that Olefin is best for you, How should you pick out your olefin carpet? One of the biggest mistakes people make with Olefin carpet is getting a carpet yarn that is tall. Olefin is very heavy and if you take a tall heavy fiber and support it with lots and lots of other tall heavy fibers they will mat and tangle and not look very good. Your best bet is to get a very short olefin fiber that will not mat. When you compare the Olefin carpet between stores you want to make sure that you are comparing carpets of equal density. The store should be able to tell you how dense this particular carpet is. Make sure that you are getting the price for a square yard of carpet and not a square foot. Also, make sure that you compare the same thickness of carpet pad and if the carpet installation and carpet stretching is going to be knee kicked or power stretched. You might also want to ask if the installer working for the store is an employee or if they are a sub contractor? Do they guarantee the carpet installation? You might want to check the store and installer on the BBB web site. I would compare three stores for price. Remember to compare the store for the same: 1. Fiber content (are they made of the same stuff? Olefin) 2. The carpets thickness. 3. Are they all using square yards? 4. Cost of the same thickness carpet pad. 5. Cost of installation. 6. Is the installation under guarantee? 7. Are the installers power stretching or Knee kicking? 8. How much do they charge for old carpet tear out? 9. How much do they charge for old carpet removal? If you have any other questions regarding choosing the best cheap carpet or finding a longer lasting carpet please look for the article you need at www.Colorado-Carpet-Masters.com
DAJELIFE
Choosing the Best Cheap Carpet for Your Own Individual Needs
by: Keith Wroblewski
What carpet will work best for my needs? What questions should I ask the carpet store before purchasing my carpet? How can I tell if the carpet is a quality carpet versus an over priced carpet? These are the questions that my clients ask me when they are considering purchasing a new carpet for their home. I will attempt to answer these questions and keep you from spending too much money or not enough money to achieve your new carpet needs. The first question you should answer is How long do I want the carpet to last? To simplify the answer to this question we will categorize the expected carpet life into under 5 years. Many people just want to put carpet into their home for resale purposes and wish to spend the least amount of money as possible. Other people wish to replace just their family room for a few years and then replace the whole house once the upstairs or less used carpets are also ready for replacement. If you want just a few years of use, Olefin carpet may be the best carpet for you. It is simply less expensive. It is also colorfast and will not discolor or fade easily. The down side to Olefin carpet is that it will mat easily and not perk up as much once it is cleaned. It will also absorb oils and not release them easily or some times not at all. As a carpet cleaner, we like Olefin the least since it does not respond to cleaning as well as most other carpets. Now that you decided that Olefin is best for you, How should you pick out your olefin carpet? One of the biggest mistakes people make with Olefin carpet is getting a carpet yarn that is tall. Olefin is very heavy and if you take a tall heavy fiber and support it with lots and lots of other tall heavy fibers they will mat and tangle and not look very good. Your best bet is to get a very short olefin fiber that will not mat. When you compare the Olefin carpet between stores you want to make sure that you are comparing carpets of equal density. The store should be able to tell you how dense this particular carpet is. Make sure that you are getting the price for a square yard of carpet and not a square foot. Also, make sure that you compare the same thickness of carpet pad and if the carpet installation and carpet stretching is going to be knee kicked or power stretched. You might also want to ask if the installer working for the store is an employee or if they are a sub contractor? Do they guarantee the carpet installation? You might want to check the store and installer on the BBB web site. I would compare three stores for price. Remember to compare the store for the same: 1. Fiber content (are they made of the same stuff? Olefin) 2. The carpets thickness. 3. Are they all using square yards? 4. Cost of the same thickness carpet pad. 5. Cost of installation. 6. Is the installation under guarantee? 7. Are the installers power stretching or Knee kicking? 8. How much do they charge for old carpet tear out? 9. How much do they charge for old carpet removal? If you have any other questions regarding choosing the best cheap carpet or finding a longer lasting carpet please look for the article you need at www.Colorado-Carpet-Masters.com
cleaning tile floors DIY
A great DIY article I found read and enjoy
dajelife
Cleaning Tile Floors - Quick and Easy 5 Step Method by Sid Green
To Clean a Tile Floor in the past could be exhausting, and even unhealthy with all the fumes from commercial cleaners. Not so when you use this five step method! I'll show you how to effectively clean your tile floors in less time, less work, with better results and using a safe natural ingredient. Sounds good eh?
Read on…
1. Vacuum up the Dusty Stuff
If your ever tried mopping before sweeping or vacuuming up the dust and debris you quickly find out that it's a big pain in the behind to push around web dust bunnies with your mop. So, the vacuum method works well, it will get right into the grout and pick up the dust balls and grit in the corners.
2. Prep the Cleaner
Because I like to use effective cleaners that are environmentally friendly I'm going to use vinegar. That's right, 1 cup of white vinegar per 1 gallon of hot water. Try it out; I think you'll be pleasantly surprised.
3. Simply Soak
Because vinegar is a mild acid, it eats away at all the grease and grim when just left to soak. So, using your mop, dip and with liberty apply the vinegar cleaning water to the floor. All over the floor ensuring you have enough "wetness" to last for a good 10min of soaking (without evaporating).
4. Scrub the Gunk
While you leave the tile floors to soak, go around with a scrub brush or sponge scrubby and work out any evident spots of stickiness; Most of the time this type of stuff settles on the grout. Go around and give those places a good scrub out.
5. Rinse and then Rinse
Ok, now go dump and refresh your bucket with some warm water. Wet the mop and ring it out all the way. Soak up all the water off the floor, frequently refreshing the mop in your bucket and ringing it out.
After the floor is free of excess water (still damp), go dump and refill the bucket with some new cold water. Now wet the mop ring it out three-quarters of the way and polish the floor in figure eights. Let it dry and watch the shine come through.
Done, you'll find the floor will dry to an admirable shine, and you'll almost be reluctant to step on it. Go ahead you deserve to walk on pristine clean floors. Feels soooo good!
dajelife
Cleaning Tile Floors - Quick and Easy 5 Step Method by Sid Green
To Clean a Tile Floor in the past could be exhausting, and even unhealthy with all the fumes from commercial cleaners. Not so when you use this five step method! I'll show you how to effectively clean your tile floors in less time, less work, with better results and using a safe natural ingredient. Sounds good eh?
Read on…
1. Vacuum up the Dusty Stuff
If your ever tried mopping before sweeping or vacuuming up the dust and debris you quickly find out that it's a big pain in the behind to push around web dust bunnies with your mop. So, the vacuum method works well, it will get right into the grout and pick up the dust balls and grit in the corners.
2. Prep the Cleaner
Because I like to use effective cleaners that are environmentally friendly I'm going to use vinegar. That's right, 1 cup of white vinegar per 1 gallon of hot water. Try it out; I think you'll be pleasantly surprised.
3. Simply Soak
Because vinegar is a mild acid, it eats away at all the grease and grim when just left to soak. So, using your mop, dip and with liberty apply the vinegar cleaning water to the floor. All over the floor ensuring you have enough "wetness" to last for a good 10min of soaking (without evaporating).
4. Scrub the Gunk
While you leave the tile floors to soak, go around with a scrub brush or sponge scrubby and work out any evident spots of stickiness; Most of the time this type of stuff settles on the grout. Go around and give those places a good scrub out.
5. Rinse and then Rinse
Ok, now go dump and refresh your bucket with some warm water. Wet the mop and ring it out all the way. Soak up all the water off the floor, frequently refreshing the mop in your bucket and ringing it out.
After the floor is free of excess water (still damp), go dump and refill the bucket with some new cold water. Now wet the mop ring it out three-quarters of the way and polish the floor in figure eights. Let it dry and watch the shine come through.
Done, you'll find the floor will dry to an admirable shine, and you'll almost be reluctant to step on it. Go ahead you deserve to walk on pristine clean floors. Feels soooo good!
Clean out you dryer vent DIY
Another article I found Hope you enjoy
Dajelife
Cleaning Your Dryer Vent Means A Savings Of Time And Money And Avoiding a Fire Hazard by: Rick Pocock
Have you noticed that its starting to take longer and longer for your clothes to dry? Does a load of towels now take 2 or 3 drying cycles, and maybe still feel a little damp? If so, you’re probably also paying higher gas and electric bills than you used to. The solution may be simpler than you think. And less expensive. Most people automatically think that the dryer itself is the problem, but it usually turns out that the venting pipe that exhausts the dryer to the outside of the house has become clogged with lint. If your dryer can’t vent out that heat and moisture in the clothes, then your laundry can’t dry. Over time, running the dryer this way will eventually create enough extra wear and tear on the dryer parts that it will ultimately lead to expensive dryer repairs. Worst of all, it also turns your dryer into a potential fire hazard. Most dryers now have a safety feature that will either turn the dryer off or turn the dryer’s heat off if it senses that it’s overheating, which will happen when there’s a buildup clogging the venting system. That’s why it takes forever for your clothes to dry--the clothes will keep spinning but there’ll be no heat. This feature is not completely reliable to depend on, and the older dryers are also not as likely to have adequate safety systems which will shut it off or stop the heat. Who do you contact to get the venting system brushed out and inspected? Believe it or not, most appliance technicians will only deal with the dryer itself and want nothing to do with what it vents through. Generally the people to contact are chimney sweeps, and it is highly recommended to use one trained as a C-Det Certified Dryer Exhaust Technician if they are in your area. In addition to cleaning out the accumulation in the venting system, there are other ways to help keep you safe when using your dryer. One of the main causes for buildup in the dryer venting system is from forgetting to pull the pieces of paper, wrappers or Kleenex from the pockets before doing the laundry. Then add to that the hair (human and pet), sand, jewelry, money, and just about anything that you can think of, and you can see what it will lead to. The more of this kind of stuff that can be caught ahead of time and not allowed to get into the dryer, the better. It’s crazy what winds up in there! In 1998, the last year reported, the U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission estimated that there were 15,600 fires, resulting in 20 deaths and 370 injuries from dryer fires. The fire hazard, in many cases, is caused by the lint and paper that gets past the lint screen landing inside the dryer below the drum on the dryer floor. Have a qualified appliance repair person out to clean the interior of the dryer several times a year to minimize the chance of fire. Watch how the repair person does this. In some dryers, there’s an access panel in the front of the dryer that can be easily removed so that the homeowner can do this. Clean the lint debris behind the dryer and keep combustible materials away from the dryer as much as possible. Lint should be removed from the lint screen before each load of laundry. In addition, the fabric softener pads or sheets are fine to use but they leave a chemical film on the lint screen which will make your dryer harder to exhaust. Every few months, take the lint screen out, bring it to your kitchen sink and wash it with water, liquid dishwashing soap and a tooth brush. The flexible connector hose between the dryer and the wall should be made from aluminum and not from flammable plastic. It should not be kinked or crushed, since this will also restrict the dryer’s ability to vent properly and will cause the dryer to overheat. It’s preferable that the connector hose only be long enough to go between the dryer and the wall with just a little bit of slack so that if the dryer is pulled out, the hose still stays connected. If your dryer is located in a laundry closet or small room, the door to that room must be open while the dryer is running. A dryer needs make-up air--whatever amount of air it’s exhausting out, it needs to bring the same amount of air in, without having to work for it. If the dryer cannot get that make-up air, it may overheat. A dryer needs at least 100 square inches of oxygen, the equivalent of a 10" x 10" window. Also, if there is an exhaust fan in the laundry room, the fan should be off when the dryer is running. Because of the high incidence of dryer fires, never leave the house if the dryer is on and never go to bed with the dryer running either. We are all a nation of multitaskers and what better way to multitask than to put wet clothes into the dryer, run some errands and come home to a load of dry laundry. This is really taking chances and just not safe to do. When looking for a company to clean the dryer vent system, make sure that the technician will use a brushing method to clean out the dryer venting system. Many companies simply use a vacuum or blower, which will not remove the lint accumulation in the venting system. This becomes that much more essential if the lint is moist, since it takes on a consistency close to paper mache and will otherwise stick like paste to the inside of the pipe. So if you are in need of this being done, just think about how much money you will be saving and how much joy it will put back into doing the laundry! Well, maybe that’s a slight exaggeration, but at least it will be a little less of a chore.
Dajelife
Cleaning Your Dryer Vent Means A Savings Of Time And Money And Avoiding a Fire Hazard by: Rick Pocock
Have you noticed that its starting to take longer and longer for your clothes to dry? Does a load of towels now take 2 or 3 drying cycles, and maybe still feel a little damp? If so, you’re probably also paying higher gas and electric bills than you used to. The solution may be simpler than you think. And less expensive. Most people automatically think that the dryer itself is the problem, but it usually turns out that the venting pipe that exhausts the dryer to the outside of the house has become clogged with lint. If your dryer can’t vent out that heat and moisture in the clothes, then your laundry can’t dry. Over time, running the dryer this way will eventually create enough extra wear and tear on the dryer parts that it will ultimately lead to expensive dryer repairs. Worst of all, it also turns your dryer into a potential fire hazard. Most dryers now have a safety feature that will either turn the dryer off or turn the dryer’s heat off if it senses that it’s overheating, which will happen when there’s a buildup clogging the venting system. That’s why it takes forever for your clothes to dry--the clothes will keep spinning but there’ll be no heat. This feature is not completely reliable to depend on, and the older dryers are also not as likely to have adequate safety systems which will shut it off or stop the heat. Who do you contact to get the venting system brushed out and inspected? Believe it or not, most appliance technicians will only deal with the dryer itself and want nothing to do with what it vents through. Generally the people to contact are chimney sweeps, and it is highly recommended to use one trained as a C-Det Certified Dryer Exhaust Technician if they are in your area. In addition to cleaning out the accumulation in the venting system, there are other ways to help keep you safe when using your dryer. One of the main causes for buildup in the dryer venting system is from forgetting to pull the pieces of paper, wrappers or Kleenex from the pockets before doing the laundry. Then add to that the hair (human and pet), sand, jewelry, money, and just about anything that you can think of, and you can see what it will lead to. The more of this kind of stuff that can be caught ahead of time and not allowed to get into the dryer, the better. It’s crazy what winds up in there! In 1998, the last year reported, the U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission estimated that there were 15,600 fires, resulting in 20 deaths and 370 injuries from dryer fires. The fire hazard, in many cases, is caused by the lint and paper that gets past the lint screen landing inside the dryer below the drum on the dryer floor. Have a qualified appliance repair person out to clean the interior of the dryer several times a year to minimize the chance of fire. Watch how the repair person does this. In some dryers, there’s an access panel in the front of the dryer that can be easily removed so that the homeowner can do this. Clean the lint debris behind the dryer and keep combustible materials away from the dryer as much as possible. Lint should be removed from the lint screen before each load of laundry. In addition, the fabric softener pads or sheets are fine to use but they leave a chemical film on the lint screen which will make your dryer harder to exhaust. Every few months, take the lint screen out, bring it to your kitchen sink and wash it with water, liquid dishwashing soap and a tooth brush. The flexible connector hose between the dryer and the wall should be made from aluminum and not from flammable plastic. It should not be kinked or crushed, since this will also restrict the dryer’s ability to vent properly and will cause the dryer to overheat. It’s preferable that the connector hose only be long enough to go between the dryer and the wall with just a little bit of slack so that if the dryer is pulled out, the hose still stays connected. If your dryer is located in a laundry closet or small room, the door to that room must be open while the dryer is running. A dryer needs make-up air--whatever amount of air it’s exhausting out, it needs to bring the same amount of air in, without having to work for it. If the dryer cannot get that make-up air, it may overheat. A dryer needs at least 100 square inches of oxygen, the equivalent of a 10" x 10" window. Also, if there is an exhaust fan in the laundry room, the fan should be off when the dryer is running. Because of the high incidence of dryer fires, never leave the house if the dryer is on and never go to bed with the dryer running either. We are all a nation of multitaskers and what better way to multitask than to put wet clothes into the dryer, run some errands and come home to a load of dry laundry. This is really taking chances and just not safe to do. When looking for a company to clean the dryer vent system, make sure that the technician will use a brushing method to clean out the dryer venting system. Many companies simply use a vacuum or blower, which will not remove the lint accumulation in the venting system. This becomes that much more essential if the lint is moist, since it takes on a consistency close to paper mache and will otherwise stick like paste to the inside of the pipe. So if you are in need of this being done, just think about how much money you will be saving and how much joy it will put back into doing the laundry! Well, maybe that’s a slight exaggeration, but at least it will be a little less of a chore.
Tips on hiring a contractor
I saw this article and thought it relevant to what I am doing here. Although it is not a DIY article.
hope you enjoy.
dajelife
Tips For Hiring A Contractor by: Dhorj Escusa
You’ve seen it in the magazines and you’ve seen it on TV. Now, see it right inside your homes: hardwood flooring being installed. Hardwood flooring, ever since, has always been an image of sophistication, tradition and of being conservative. Hardwood floors lasts a lifetime. Its durability makes it easy to maintain. It is stylish. It is hypo-allergenic. It is environment-friendly. It has a great variety of designs from natural wood types, patterns, stains and finishes. And more importantly, it adds value to any home. As I have mentioned, hardwood floors lasts a lifetime. But just because it could last forever (or so at least), that does not mean you don’t have to maintain it. With so many hardwood flooring installation companies there are in every local areas, it is impossible that you cannot find a contractor that suits your style and budget. A hardwood flooring Tennessee-based contractor, Grigores shared these tips, based from their experience, if you are working with a contractor. · Start with an idea — You might have seen a beautiful flooring design from a home magazine or the Internet, and imitate that almost same look to your house. Sketch your ideas and detail it so when you found your contractor, you can easily recall the things you want to be done. · Look up Contractors — You can either ask someone you know if they could recommend you to one. Or if there is none, you could always rely on the Yellowpages or the Internet for resources. And do not ever forget to look for licensed permits from the local office. · Get Bids — Call them up. Set up a meeting. Discuss your project. Ask them for an estimate. Do not settle with one hardwood flooring installation contractor. If you can accommodate three bidding contractors the better. · Invite them to your home — Do not ever rely on phone-based quotation or Internet-based quotations. As a true contractor, they will insist on seeing your place to see the scale of your house’s flooring. And if they did, then let them evaluate. Seeing the scope of the projects gives the contractor’s estimator an approximate amount of the cost that will be shed out for your hardwood flooring project. · Reference and Testimonials — Knowing how the contractors worked with their previous customer can help your decision on whom to pick on the bidding. Customer service is one of the many essential factors you should consider when hiring a contractor. · Contract — get a signed, written contact of the project cost and be sure to understand it. It should contain the following details: the company’s name and particulars; detailed project description; materials list; a statement that “all necessary permits and inspections are the responsibility of the contractor”; starting and completion dates; warranties guaranteed by the contractor; a guarantee that the contractor carries liability insurance and worker’s compensation coverage; a statement that either the contractor shall held responsible of clean-up; total price and payment schedule, if applicable; and the contactors license number. · Working hours — make sure that you know how you’re going to pay the contractor. Is it an hourly basis?
hope you enjoy.
dajelife
Tips For Hiring A Contractor by: Dhorj Escusa
You’ve seen it in the magazines and you’ve seen it on TV. Now, see it right inside your homes: hardwood flooring being installed. Hardwood flooring, ever since, has always been an image of sophistication, tradition and of being conservative. Hardwood floors lasts a lifetime. Its durability makes it easy to maintain. It is stylish. It is hypo-allergenic. It is environment-friendly. It has a great variety of designs from natural wood types, patterns, stains and finishes. And more importantly, it adds value to any home. As I have mentioned, hardwood floors lasts a lifetime. But just because it could last forever (or so at least), that does not mean you don’t have to maintain it. With so many hardwood flooring installation companies there are in every local areas, it is impossible that you cannot find a contractor that suits your style and budget. A hardwood flooring Tennessee-based contractor, Grigores shared these tips, based from their experience, if you are working with a contractor. · Start with an idea — You might have seen a beautiful flooring design from a home magazine or the Internet, and imitate that almost same look to your house. Sketch your ideas and detail it so when you found your contractor, you can easily recall the things you want to be done. · Look up Contractors — You can either ask someone you know if they could recommend you to one. Or if there is none, you could always rely on the Yellowpages or the Internet for resources. And do not ever forget to look for licensed permits from the local office. · Get Bids — Call them up. Set up a meeting. Discuss your project. Ask them for an estimate. Do not settle with one hardwood flooring installation contractor. If you can accommodate three bidding contractors the better. · Invite them to your home — Do not ever rely on phone-based quotation or Internet-based quotations. As a true contractor, they will insist on seeing your place to see the scale of your house’s flooring. And if they did, then let them evaluate. Seeing the scope of the projects gives the contractor’s estimator an approximate amount of the cost that will be shed out for your hardwood flooring project. · Reference and Testimonials — Knowing how the contractors worked with their previous customer can help your decision on whom to pick on the bidding. Customer service is one of the many essential factors you should consider when hiring a contractor. · Contract — get a signed, written contact of the project cost and be sure to understand it. It should contain the following details: the company’s name and particulars; detailed project description; materials list; a statement that “all necessary permits and inspections are the responsibility of the contractor”; starting and completion dates; warranties guaranteed by the contractor; a guarantee that the contractor carries liability insurance and worker’s compensation coverage; a statement that either the contractor shall held responsible of clean-up; total price and payment schedule, if applicable; and the contactors license number. · Working hours — make sure that you know how you’re going to pay the contractor. Is it an hourly basis?
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